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I have just bitten the bullet and replaced the screen cable. The dis-assembly was relatively trouble free and connecting the cable to the motherboard was easy, although the cross-head screws were very tight. However, I had a hell of a time trying to get the hinge assemble to go back into place with the cable going through it. I could not work out the mechanics of the hinge and nothing seemed to line up. I was on the point of throwing the thing in the bin when I noticed that a small piece of plastic in the lid had bent slightly to one side and was preventing the hinge from lining up. A small tweak with a screwdriver and it suddenly all went into place. The final result is fantastic, no more white screens, I can put the charger in without fiddling with the brightness or squeezing/banging the screen. Go on – do it!
I fixed our December 2008 NC10 today which was exhibiting the intermittent white screen problem as the screen lid was moved.
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Unsticking the flat portion of the lcd cable and repositioning it an an angle towards the bottom of the screen worked for me. This relieved some of the pressure on the cable as it passes through the left hand hinge which is a pinch point. I was pleasantly surprised that the fix worked as I was expecting to have to remove the entire lcd cable and test for broken wires. So this saved me the task of soldering some of the individual wires but I may still have to do this if the fix does not last, time will tell.
Hope this helps
thanks OUTNUMBERED. I was about to order a new wiring harness for the LED screen on my NC-10 and thought, what the heck, I’ll try the “dork around with the wiring”. Did so, reassembled everything except the plastic LCD frame (in case it didn’t work) and VOILA….problem is gone….It’s now two days and no problems….
Never would have put money on the “dork around with the wires” but hey, if it works, how can you argue???
Hi,
I registered just to share my experience. I have been batteling / tolerating the intermittent white screen issue for months. I have tried replacing the LCD cable, tinkering with the cable several times, and every time the problem has returned. Until I tried the following solution several months ago, and since then I have had a huge improvement (although not completly fixed)Being an electronic engineer myself I am all too aware of signal integrity issues, and I think the problem in this case is probably related to poor cable shielding/cross talk between wires. What I did to improve mine was to simply tape (with capton tape or similar) the LCD cable to the shiny metalic screening plate (ground shield) from the point where the cable flattens. I think this has a scrreening effect which stops the signals in the cable interfering with each other. Just make sure the cable sits as tightly as possible to the screen.
@4eric 110980 wrote:
thanks OUTNUMBERED. I was about to order a new wiring harness for the LED screen on my NC-10 and thought, what the heck, I’ll try the “dork around with the wiring”. Did so, reassembled everything except the plastic LCD frame (in case it didn’t work) and VOILA….problem is gone….It’s now two days and no problems….
Never would have put money on the “dork around with the wires” but hey, if it works, how can you argue???
Sorry to report that “dorking around with the wires” only worked for about a week, then the same problem white screen reoccured….
I decided to bite the bullet and order a new harness. I removed the battery, the 4 screws holding the plastic frame around the LED screen, the remaining screws holding the LED screen, turned it over and removed ALL the screws on the underside of the laptop. With a dull knife, the plastic base of the laptop can now be removed, exposing the other end of the harness. Since there are two types of harnesses, be sure and order the one for your laptop….it’s part number is on the harness. I googled searched the number and found a supplier on ebay. I ordered 2 of them just in case as my kids have an NC-10 also–so far with no issues.
2 harnesss arrived and it was a simple matter of unplugging the broken one and replacing it with the new one, a “grounding wire” (I think) also has to be reconnected as in the old harness.
Reassembled everything, fired it up and it’s working like new—-BTW, that was 2 months ago and it’s still working fine. If you are having this issue, you’ve got to replace the harness, that’s all there is to it. It’s not that difficult, even a caveman could do it 😉
I have had this problem for around two years now, with intermittent white screen, but it got much worse lately, so after reading this threaD and watching the video, I thought I would have a go at fixing it. I took the back of the screen off and pullled the connector out before pushing it back in. This worked for a while, but not for long. As soon as I pushed the lid down, the ascreen was likely to go qwhite again. I found that I could restore the screen, in a stable condition, as long as I kept the lid at a certain angle, but could not close it for fear of the white screen.
However, I think I have now solved it. I found that if I taped the screen wire and connector tightly, the screen was more stable, but it had a green tinge, so was not fully right. I found that if I pressed the back of the screen in a particulkar place, i.e. just under the connector, the screen was perfect. So the next step was to find a solution to the problem of how to maintain pressure at that particular point. What I did was to buy some stick pads from the 99p shop and stuck one on the ‘sweet spot’ so when I screwed the screen back to the lid it would maintain the pressure.
And it worked, much to my relief. I have tried opening and closing the lid and switching it off and on again and the screen is great. I don’t know if this will work for anyone else, but it seems to have worked for me.
As an update, in my case with the lines/jumping screen, I bit the bullet and opened it up and had a fiddle. Wasn’t all that difficult if that’s all you’re doing. I’ve got it a lot better. Still jumps about as I open the lid but in most positions in use it’s now stable and doesn’t flick about almost all the time as it had got to the point of.
All I’ve done really is shift the bottom end of the cable up slightly as it was visible below the display, and now it’s tucked behind the display and held in place by it so it has less movement other than on the hinge.
Will see how that goes. Slight annoyance is I cracked the plastic cover very slightly despite much care, but for its age it will do. Keeps me from buying a tablet that I don’t really need. Yeah would be nice, but I’d rather have a proper keyboard and don’t want a separate bluetooth one and need a Windows device too. Will keep an eye on the Surface stuff and might end up with them as the NC10 is fairly useless for Windows 8 anyway having fractionally too small a resolution!
Thanks for the fix. Got say I was and still am deeply sceptical! I just took my laptop apart and put it back together with absolutely no clue what I was doing and the white screen of death has gone. I wonder how long it will last!?
I see this thread doesn’t get that much action these days…. sadly our Sammy Netbooks are becoming a thing of the past. Thought I would just pop back on and say my original NC10 is still going, despite the loss of an F7 key. It’s slowing down a bit but I think I need to de-junk it from 5 years of accumulated rubbish! The new wiring harness is now three years old (wow where did that time go) and I haven’t had a day of trouble with it since.
If you have this problem then give it a go. The results speak for themselves.
I am off to look at down grading from Win7 to XP threads cos 7 is just sooooooo slow compared to the machines we have running XP.
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