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I actually didn’t cut any wire, I just opened LCD and then in back of the panel there’s a little tiny plug. I just touched it and plug it a little tighter than it was, with my hands nervously shaking in fear of damaging something ….but no white screeen any more, i’t’s just few hours but it used to get white every other minute, it was pretty unusable
emarraro – Thanks for sharing your successful fix.
Hopefully it will be permanent, so please let us know how it goes.
CheersWell, I have had a white, blue, yellow and purple screen of death (evident both on the NC10 and external Samsung monitor). In fact it seems only to have happened since I hooked it up to a new p2070 monitor and is preceded by the flickering mentioned by others. Its cured temporarily by hibernating and restarting.
The samsung helpdesk booked it in for repair and it came back with a new LCD cable fitted but this has not cured it. The helpdesk is now suggesting it must be the video driver and the only cure is a system restore. Slightly reluctant to do this given the amount of time it will take me to be up and running again and slightly sceptical that it will cure it – has anyone else cured it through this approach?
Hi jsel,
Did the helpdesk give a reason for not suggesting re-installing the video driver? If that is the fault then their recommendation seems rather drastic.
jsel – It would seem logical to re-install the graphics driver before considering a full restore. A more radical approach would be to re-install all the drivers on the machine and then perhaps trying different graphics driver versions.
Hope this helps
thanks for the replies – I did suggest just doing the graphics driver but they were adament about doing a full restore for some reason. I think I will follow your suggestions first
bad news here. It looked fine, but today it did it again….the white screen of death is back.
> Notice where the cable flattens out and adheres
> to the back of the panel,
> Have some fun peeling the first inch or so of it off
> and sticking it back onI dont understand exactly how you do that, can you be more accurate , thanks anyway
My God, I really wish I had seen this thread a month ago. My NC10 started flickering green, about a week after it went flying out of my hand when I fell of my skateboard. It would randomly start working again, and then in the middle of a lecture or something important it would start flickering again. It got to the point that I was so irritated I would punch the back of the screen to get it to start working. Finally tonight, I took the damn thing apart, completely separated the screen from the board (except for the cable) and started fiddling around to see if anything would change. After nearly 30 minutes of nothing, I pushed the tip of my nail into the ribbon connector in the back of the screen to make sure it was in tight, and sure enough the screen went from completely green back to its beautiful self. I must say, I am happy right now. Only after I fix the damn thing do I think to check the web. But now that I am so comfortable with having this thing open, I might just install a nav chip and upgrade the wifi card..
if anyone wants detailed instructions on the fix, send me a message.
😀 cheers
perfectace – Welcome to the forum
If you could find time to post more details I’m sure many users here would find the information very usefulCheers
Ok, I tried again, following instructions posted by user “outnumbered”, and this time I hope a made the grade.
This time I found the exact point of the flat cable causing the problem, i.e. while working I touched slightly the cable and basically I could find the exact spot where i could make the white screen happen.
I moved the flat cable a little bit randomly until i found what I thought was a no-white-screen position, and then I stuck on that
almost two white-screen-free days now. Hope it lasts
jeepers, thanks for the welcome. I wish I would have taken some pictures, but I’m at families house for the holidays right now and didnt have a camera with me. I think outnumbered’s instructions were pretty satisfactory, but here is a little more detailed step through for those who are finding this fix a little difficult.
Please read the whole thing through and make sure you’re up to it before you open your case. Its really not that bad. I’ll upload some pictures soon.
1. Open the case. I’ll skip details on this one as there are already a few guides out there.
2. Once the case is open, you need to disconnect the long black and white antenna wires from the wifi card. Use the tip of your finger nails or some pliers to pull them off. Then disconnect the two silver coated wires coming out of the other side of the screen (one is for the webcam and the bigger one is the monitor. These two have to be unscrewed from the board as well.
3. When the wires have been removed, you can carefully unscrew the screen from the board at the two “L” shaped metallic hinges on either side. Each one has two screws. Once unscrewed, you should be able to carefully remove the screen with the silver swivels from the board.
4. Now unscrew the four corners of the bezel around the screen. (Screws are hidden under little rubber shields which can be popped out with a little flat head screw driver). Use the same method you used to open the case to now pop off the bezel. I used a guitar pick. When you are removing the bezel, be careful at the top around the web cam as there is some sticky stuff holding it shut. Stick you finger in near one of the top corners and slowly move it towards the center. Its ok to use a little force to pry it open towards the middle.
5. Now the LCD panel has to be completely freed from the backside of the monitor cover. Unscrew the now exposed other halves of the two L-shaped hinges, and the panel should be free from its base. What I did from here was to remove the LCD, lay the board with keyboard side down on a table, plug in just the monitor LCD cable (the only cable on the LCD), attach the battery (you may have to hold the battery in place since it wont lock now that the case is open), and turn on the power. Twist the cable around to see if anything happens starting from one end and moving up. Notice where the cable ends and goes into the monitor. Its almost in the center of the screen. This is where the silver coating around the wire stops and you can see the ribbon cable going into the slot, and there’s some clear protective tape over it if I remember correctly. Gently use your finger nail to push this part into the slot to make sure its all the way in. And look at the LCD as you do this. At some point you should hit the sweet spot and the picture should hopefully be restored.
Hope thats helpful to someone.
-cheersperfectace – Thank you for taking the time to post your procedure.
I’m sure this will be of great benefit to a lot of readers and will give courage and reassurance to those that may be contemplating carrying out this fix/mod.
Thanks again, cheers 🙂
Hiya…new here,, would like to say thanks to the contributors on this thread/forum…. my wifes machine has developed this problem too, and after a lengthy argument a COMET, and with reference to this forum, managed to get it sent for repair. I wonder what the incidence of the white screen issue is?? , and if samsung plan to do anything about the users who have had this issue or will have in the future..I hope they will recognise an inherrant manufacturing problem, and offer some kind oe extended warranty, on this particular thing… any thoughts??
Again…great resource,,, thanks.
[quote1259574933=vit]
Hiya…new here,, would like to say thanks to the contributors on this thread/forum…. my wifes machine has developed this problem too, and after a lengthy argument a COMET, and with reference to this forum, managed to get it sent for repair. I wonder what the incidence of the white screen issue is?? , and if samsung plan to do anything about the users who have had this issue or will have in the future..I hope they will recognise an inherrant manufacturing problem, and offer some kind oe extended warranty, on this particular thing… any thoughts??Again…great resource,,, thanks.
[/quote1259574933]I was told by Samsung that if the problem was booked during the first year then subsequent repairs would take into account that the initial problem happened within the warranty period. I asked them because my warranty runs out this week and replacing the lcd cable has not solved the problem.
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