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I checked out the thread on people who want to exorcise the repulsive glossy finish on the lid, but it seems to have grown to accommodate applying decals, which isn’t really a mod in my opinion. To really accomplish a non-glossy lid, one really ought to do something permanent (one user mentioned sandblasting the lid), and to do such a thing, the lid really does need to be removed to minimise damage to the rest of the machine. So then, has anyone done such a thing? What holds the lid together, and what does dismantling it entail?
A note on what I plan to do. I have a black NC10. It has an ugly glossy lid. I purchased a Krylon product called “Matte Finish”. It is a spray-paint type clear finish intended for making pencil and charcoal drawings on paper permanent. I tried a few test runs on similar surfaces. It looked amazing — just like the satin portions of the NC10. But I found that, even after two days’ drying time, it burnished when scratched. This is not ideal. So now I have a can of Krylon “Fusion for Plastic”, in the black satin variety. I am going to give my external hard drive a once-over and see how it looks. The hardware lady says it should be burnish-proof.
So, if anyone has any clue how to dismantle the lid, please let me know and I will post pics when I’ve done the deed.
Step one: Remove the logo with your fingernails.
What’s this? A cheap decal? I feel like the value of my NC10 just doubled!
The instructions for the touchscreen mod should help you to remove the screen section, you would just have to figure out how to remove the screen itself, though it looks like it may just come off once all the screws and brackets have been removed.
Take a look at the links in the first post of this thread:-
Touch screen mod tutorial[quote1248573500=outnumbered]I purchased a Krylon product called “Matte Finish”. It is a spray-paint type clear finish intended for making pencil and charcoal drawings on paper permanent. I tried a few test runs on similar surfaces. It looked amazing — just like the satin portions of the NC10. But I found that, even after two days’ drying time, it burnished when scratched. This is not ideal. So now I have a can of Krylon “Fusion for Plastic”, in the black satin variety. I am going to give my external hard drive a once-over and see how it looks. The hardware lady says it should be burnish-proof.
So, if anyone has any clue how to dismantle the lid, please let me know and I will post pics when I’ve done the deed.
[/quote1248573500]I’m planning to degloss the blue model. Have you done anything more to yours?You used the wrong Krylon product. That one is not intended to be handled much so isn’t meant to be durable. Here is the one I plan to use:
http://www.krylon.com/products/acrylic_crystal_clear/
Meant for Indoor/Outdoor use and waterproof. They also make a clear coating in their Fusion line (meant to bond with plastics) but not sure yet if it’s matte.[quote1248573824=Alfihar]
The instructions for the touchscreen mod should help you to remove the screen section, you would just have to figure out how to remove the screen itself, though it looks like it may just come off once all the screws and brackets have been removed.Take a look at the links in the first post of this thread:-
Touch screen mod tutorial
[/quote1248573824]
Think I’ll just do a really good masking job on mine rather than try to disassemble.It would be fantastic to get some pics of any steps you guys take, I’m getting the impression there would be a fair bit of interest in this.
why not use superfine sandpaper or emory paper to “degloss” the lid. You only need to remove a minute amount of material to obtain a “matte” finish. Frankly, that makes more sense than mucking around with spray paints, major dismantling and/or taping. Just a thought.
dockehr
[quote1248719368=griezzel]”makes more sense”
not[/quote1248719368]
I have to say that is harsh and somewhat unwarranted.I think, on reflection, you will realise that dockehr was only trying to be helpful, as he consistently is on this forum, in my opinion.
jeepers01, Thank you for covering my back. I have actually “deglossed” shiny plastic surfaces in the past with very fine sandpaper or cloth paper. The items were not near as visible as the glossy lid on a Sammy Netbook but the technique worked.
As far as some of the paint techniques that have been mentioned, I wonder if some sort of “priming” application might be necessary to produce the proper amount of adherence of the new paint to the existing plastic.
It would be great to have access to several Sammy lids or panels to test. Thanks again, and by the way I didn’t take offense to that post, as I realize my suggestion would seem “off the wall’ to most readers.
dockehr
Since I have no experience with ultrafine grit sanding I had a knee-jerk reaction to the concept, but know I realize dockehr’s suggestion was a good one. (please accept my apology!)
[quote1248724635=jeepers01]
I have to say that is harsh and somewhat unwarranted.
[/quote1248724635]
@jeepers
Um sorry, but I took a bit of offense that he implied he had “more sense”. I didn’t think a simple “not” would offend. Sorry again.my previous post was made while at a local fast food establishment. Upon my return home I decided to put my recommendation to work.
As I have a matte white finish Samsung NC10 I used a couple of real shiny plastic panels on my Canon Pixma iP4000 printer. On one panel I used 220 grit sandpaper in a rotary fashion and on the other panel I used very fine #00 steel wool again in a rotary motion. The “swirl” marks were more noticeable on the panel deglossed by the sandpaper but not really objectionable. Steel wool does come in extra fine #000 and super fine #0000. These would be very interesting to try.
Actually, the results were quite good. However, in deglossing a shiny dark surface to a matte or flat finish surface potentially opens up the spectre of greasy fingerprints showing up on a flat or matte finished dark surface that wouldn’t be as apparent as on a white or light colored surface. Hmmm. Thus one may want to be very careful before altering a dark surface. It’s far easier to remove fingerprints from a glossy dark surface than a flat or matte dark surface. Have a good day.dockehr
[quote1248726094=griezzel]@jeepers
Um sorry, but I took a bit of offense that he implied he had “more sense”. I didn’t think a simple “not” would offend. Sorry again.[/quote1248726094]
No problem griezzel – perhaps in hindsight I jumped the gun a bit, but no harm done in the end I hope.All seems well as dockehr appears now to be off test modding all shiny surfaces!
🙂 🙂
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